The Science

SKIN STRUCTURE JOURNAL
Blocq · Science · Göteborg · 2026

The collagen cliff no one warned you about.

For most women, dermal structure begins changing ten years before the mirror admits it. This is the biology of that shift — and the one thing that can genuinely slow it down.

Swedish skincare ritual

At 32, Anna Lunde noticed the lines under her eyes were still visible after she had drunk her coffee. At 28, they had always gone by then. This is not a cosmetic observation. It is a structural one — and it begins earlier, for more women, than almost anyone is told.

The conversation about "ageing skin" is dominated by surface care: serums, peels, creams, barrier repair. All of these matter. None of them address the structural layer — the dermis — where roughly eighty percent of the skin's architecture lives, and where the actual changes people see in the mirror originate.

The dermis is largely collagen. Collagen is produced by fibroblasts. And the production curve of those fibroblasts, across every woman's life, follows a shape that has been measured since the 1970s.

The numbers, plainly.

The foundational observation comes from Shuster, Black and McVitie, writing in the British Journal of Dermatology in 1975. They reported that skin collagen density declined at approximately one percent per year from the age of about twenty-five onward. That figure has been reproduced many times since.

Shuster S, Black MM, McVitie E. "The influence of age and sex on skin thickness, skin collagen and density." British Journal of Dermatology, 1975.

One percent per year sounds modest. Over twenty-five years, it is twenty-five percent of the structural layer. And it is not evenly distributed.

Subsequent research — notably Brincat et al. and a line of menopause-related studies — identified a steeper drop during and immediately after menopause. One often-cited finding is that approximately thirty percent of dermal collagen can be lost in the first five years after menopause onset. This is where the word "cliff" belongs.

Brincat MP, Baron YM, Galea R. "Estrogens and the skin." Climacteric, 2005. (See also: Calleja-Agius, Brincat. "Skin ageing." Menopause International, 2007.)
It is not stress. It is not genetics. It is structural loss, measured in millimetres and percentages.
Figure 1 · Dermal collagen over time
Menopause onset — structural cliff begins 25 35 45 50 55 65 AGE Dermal collagen density
Conceptual representation of published findings (Shuster 1975; Brincat 2005). Individual variation is substantial.

What can, and cannot, reach the dermis.

A topical serum sits on — and partially within — the stratum corneum, the outermost 0.02mm of the skin. Even the best-formulated molecules struggle to penetrate past a few hundred microns. Which is why almost everything in the bathroom cabinet works above where the problem lives.

The dermis sits roughly one to two millimetres below the surface. To reach it, you need one of three things: injection, an in-clinic device, or a modality that travels through skin as energy rather than as molecule.

Three clinically-established modalities do exactly that:

Red light, at 630nm.

This is the wavelength most extensively studied for photobiomodulation — the direct stimulation of cellular activity by light. At 630nm, red light penetrates approximately 5mm into skin and interacts with the mitochondria of fibroblasts, the cells responsible for producing new collagen. Multiple peer-reviewed studies have associated this wavelength with increased fibroblast ATP production and collagen synthesis over treatment courses.

Radio-frequency, controlled dermal warming.

RF energy at 1-2 MHz passes through the epidermis with minimal interaction, then generates controlled heat in the dermis. The principle is straightforward: the body interprets warming in the 40-43°C range as a signal to initiate tissue remodelling, including neocollagenesis. This is the same biology that underlies many clinic-grade tightening devices.

Microcurrent, at the body's own frequency.

Microcurrent has been used in physiotherapy since the 1980s. Delivered at 200-400 microamps — the body's own bioelectric range — it has been shown to encourage ATP production and fascia response. Its cosmetic application is the subtle lift that a habit, not an event, tends to produce.

The structural layer of the skin does not respond to cream. It responds to stimulation.
How Energy Reaches the Dermis

Four layers. Different wavelengths. Different work.

0 — 0.02mm · Stratum corneum
The barrier
Where most topical products live. Essential for hydration. Largely inert to structural change.
0.02 — 0.1mm · Epidermis
The surface
Where tone and texture live. Responds to actives, exfoliation and light.
0.1 — 2mm · Papillary + reticular dermis
The structural layer
Home to fibroblasts, collagen and elastin. Where red light, RF and microcurrent do their work.
2mm+ · Subcutaneous
The foundation
Fat, vasculature, facial architecture. Addressed clinically, not cosmetically.

Why we built the No. 01.

Anna and I are not clinicians. We are customers. We spent years sitting in Stockholm and Göteborg clinics, paying per session for modalities that worked — and that we could not sustain weekly, let alone daily. The clinics knew this. Their advice was always the same: for results you can keep, daily matters more than powerful.

The problem was that home devices tended to do one thing each. A red-light mask. A microcurrent wand. An RF paddle. To assemble a serious ritual, you needed a drawer.

We commissioned the No. 01 to solve that single problem: to put the three clinic-grade modalities that actually reach the structural layer — red light, RF, microcurrent — into one instrument, alongside EMS for the facial muscles, blue LED for surface clarity, and ionic transmission so that your serum does what it is designed to do. Six modalities. Five minutes. One body.

It is not a miracle. It is a ritual. The women we tested it with, including a small panel in Göteborg, reported visible firmness within three to four weeks — and structural change (the reason this instrument exists) over months of use.

Questions worth answering.

No. The No. 01 is a beauty device intended for cosmetic use on the face and neck. It delivers the same modalities used in aesthetic clinics, at intensities designed for safe daily home use.
Tone and firmness are usually visible within three weeks of daily use. The structural remodelling that sits underneath that is measured in months. A ritual, not a reset.
Yes. The No. 01 addresses the structural layer. Topical skincare addresses the surface layer. They are complements, not substitutes. The No. 01 also makes your serum work harder via ionic transmission.
Yes. The drop in collagen around menopause is precisely why many women choose to begin a structural ritual at that point. If you have pacemakers, metal implants or are pregnant, consult your doctor before using any EMS/RF device.
Most cosmetic dermatologists recommend a two-week window after injectables before resuming microcurrent or RF. If uncertain, ask your practitioner.
Blocq No. 01

Five minutes a day. The structural layer, addressed.

Six clinical modalities. One instrument. Engineered in Sweden. Free UK delivery, 60-night ritual, two-year hardware guarantee.

£139.00
See the No. 01 →
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Advertisement · Editorial produced by Blocq · In-house research, reviewed with the Lunde founders